This year sees Bilbao celebrating (0) THE 20th (1) ............ of the Guggenheim museum. This is an institution that brought art and its lovers to the north coast city. It also started an urban relaunch in (2) ............ its industrial past was overlaid with fluttering palms, promenades and a proliferation of wonky, asymmetric, eye-popping glass and steel buildings by many of the world's best architects. Thankfully, Bilbao's old Basque soul remains (3) ............. The additions enhance the old city, and tourism hasn't disrupted the enviable lifestyle of its inhabitants. Here, lifelong friendships, culture, pintxos (Basque tapas), and the spirit of football loom (4) ............. Tucked (5) ............ green and mountainous countryside, the city flanks the Nervion river. There's a string of beaches (6) ............ the metropolitan area, reachable by metro trains. A good way to get to (7) ............ with the city centre is to walk for half an hour along the Nervion's left bank from San Mames, past the Guggenheim to La Merced bridge. San Mames is the (8) ............ of Athletic Club Bilbao.